Ullapool Book Festival turns its last page

May saw the curtain finally fall on the nineteen year run of the Ullapool Book Festival, a real gem in the crown of the Scottish literary scene. Organised by a group of seven women, and led by the redoubtable Joan Michael, the Ullapool Book Festival surprised over the years with the range and merit of guests.

The Northwest Highland fishing village of Ullapool, with views down Loch Broom and out west to the Summer Isles and beyond, might seem an improbable place to find a thriving book festival, but with it’s cherry-tree lined streets, cafes and seafood, and surrounded by broom-covered hills, it really was a perfect spot for a tranquil bookish break.

This year kicked off with eminent Scottish historian Sir Tom Devine leading a discussion about Scottishness and how modern ideas of Scottishness came about. Having never read Tom Devine, I have to say, that now I will. He has such a depth and breadth of knowledge about Scotland (his canon of books will also attest to that). He discussed how, for centuries, Highland Scotland – from its landscape to traditions, and the tartan, were something that the rest of Scotland distanced itself from culturally, imagining the mountains desolate and the inhabitants faintly pagan. Central and lowland Scots looked to England and Europe to align with what they considered civilised. Once, however, the Highlands had been ‘tamed’ and when the Napoleonic Wars meant European travel took on an unwanted edge, the Highlands became a place for both Scots and English people to travel in, and the traditions, landscape and flavours which are now presented as Scotland’s image were embraced by the whole country.

Another notable guest for the final UBF was Russia expert and journalist Angus Roxburgh who spoke eloquently and with great insider knowledge about Putin’s Russia. His memoir Moscow Calling was shortlisted for the Saltire Prize non-fiction book of the year in 2017, and his book about Putin, whom he knows, The Strongman, was short-listed for the International Affairs book of the year 2013.

I learned so much at this year’s festival – about Scotland, about Russia but also about India during lockdown. The award-winning Indian journalist and author Puja Changoiwala gave a presentation and reading from her fictionalisation of real life events which took place during the mass migrations inside India during lockdown. Her novel is called Homebound and is beautifully written. It is inspired by the mass movement of workers to their home towns and villages which happened when the Indian government introduced a travel ban to manage Covid19. Her novel covers some of the terrible trials these people faced on their long walk home. There is nothing in the book, Puja told us, that doesn’t have a basis in reality.

Alan Bissett also did a hilarious turn on the Friday evening – Moira in lockdown – from his Moira monologues series. Evening entertainment is never missed out at the UBF – last year the band The Fun Lovin’ Crime Writers gave a cracking performance both on stage and down beside the audience when the electricity went out thanks to a spilled beer. This year Aberdeen guitarist Graeme Stephen played some improvised jazz on guitar along with writer Don Patterson who gave us a humorous reading from his memoir about his own childhood in Dundee Toy Fights: A Boyhood.

It is sad that 2023 was the last Ullapool Book Festival. The reason given was that the volunteers were getting on a bit and would never see 60 again. Chris Dolan, writer and honorary president of UBF said it will leave a hole in the Scottish literary scene but that part of its legacy is that it gave confidence to other Scottish villages to host their own book festivals and literary events.

Aye Write, Glasgow’s Book Festival, kicks off this month and has something to live up to. Fortunately the barnstorming Fun Lovin’ Crime Writers (Val McDermid, Doug Johnstone, Mark Billingham, Luca Veste, Stewart Neville, and Chris Brookmyre) are playing the Royal Concert Hall on Friday 19^th May, so that’s a good start.